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Inside the world's original free love community: Islanders change spouses whenever they want, have dedicated 'love huts' and settle their differences over a game of cricket

It's the original free love community where women rule the roost: Welcome to the gorgeous Trobriand Islands in the South Pacific where t...

It's the original free love community where women rule the roost: Welcome to the gorgeous Trobriand Islands in the South Pacific where the ladies can have as many lovers as they please and marriages are sealed with a gift of yams and polished stone.
Permissive: Trobriand teenagers are encouraged to experiment with different lovers and a special hut, right, is set aside in every village for them to use

And as you'd expect from a place where free love rules the roost, conflicts on the islands, which are officially part of Papua New Guinea, are settled over marathon games of cricket in which even girls can take part.

But, as photographer Eric Lafforgue reveals, their easygoing attitude to sex has come at a price. 'Trobiand Islanders have a relaxed approach to sex before and even after marriage,' he explains. 'Girls learn about contraception very early and virginity has no value at all.
Carrying cash: Along with yams, dried banana leaves are currency on the island. According to Lafforgue, this little girl's leaves are the equivalent of a bundle of £10 notes
Carrying cash: Along with yams, dried banana leaves are currency on the island. According to Lafforgue, this little girl's leaves are the equivalent of a bundle of £10 notes

Chief: Mr Tolobuwa is the head of Vaikiki village and always carries betel nuts, lime gourds and spatulas. The spatula is made from bird bone but human used to be used
Chief: Mr Tolobuwa is the head of Vaikiki village and always carries betel nuts, lime gourds and spatulas. The spatula is made from bird bone but human used to be used

Pretty: Little girls wear beautiful crowns of flowers and sea turtle shell earrings, some inherited from their mothers.
Customs: Little girls always wear garlands of fresh flowers on their heads while right, a widow, distinguishable by her shaved head, smiles for Lafforgue's camera
Mourning: In the Trobriand Islands, those who have had a death in the family, such as this widow, shave their heads
Inside the world's original free love community: Islanders change spouses whenever they want, have dedicated 'love huts' and settle their differences over a game of cricket

'If a girl gets pregnant, her family keeps the baby, because, according to the local custom, men just help to open up the woman to pregnancy - the real father is a Baloma or spirit.'

Although more and more islanders are attending school, attitudes to sex remain the same. 'Western education changed some islander's point of view, but not all of them,' explains Lafforgue.

'Relationships between married couples don't have much in common with what happens in Europe: here [in the Trobriand Islands] a man is supposed to give presents to his wife in return for the sexual favours.'

Unfortunately, the Trobiand Islanders relaxed approach to sex and relationships has left them vulnerable to HIV and AIDS - a disease which is known to locals as 'the sickness without medicine' and has ravaged some communities.

But, says Lafforgue, even the malign presence of the disease isn't enough to persuade the islanders to give up their traditional way of life.
Traditional: Trobriand Islanders wear red grass skirts unique to the islands for ceremonies and weddings. Completing the look are traditional feathered headbands
Traditional: Trobriand Islanders wear red grass skirts unique to the islands for ceremonies and weddings. Completing the look are traditional feathered headbands

In charge: Girls are encouraged to take part in 'battles' and dance topless, with most choosing to wear red grass skirts, shells, feathers and fresh flowers
In charge: Girls are encouraged to take part in 'battles' and dance topless, with most choosing to wear red grass skirts, shells, feathers and fresh flowers

Elaborate: The skirts worn by the women are made from dried grass, while necklaces and bracelets are made from shells. Men wear cockatoo feather headdresses
Elaborate: The skirts worn by the women are made from dried grass, while necklaces and bracelets are made from shells. Men wear cockatoo feather headdresses


Colourful: A woman from the Trobriand Islands
Permissive: Trobriand teenagers are encouraged to experiment with different lovers and a special hut, right, is set aside in every village for them to use
Love shack: Each village has a special hut for teenagers who want to make love to their boyfriends and girlfriends - the doors are plastered with safe sex stickers
Permissive: Trobriand teenagers are encouraged to experiment with different lovers and a special hut, right, is set aside in every village for them to use
'Despite the fact that HIV and AIDS spreads quickly through the island population, premarital sex remains a part of the islanders’ idyllic lifestyle,' continues Lafforgue.

All villages are home to a special hut called a bukumatula which is set aside especially for unmarried teenagers and their lovers, although condoms and other types of contraceptive are nowhere to be found.

There is, however, one sort of person to whom the Trobriand Islanders' amorous behaviour doesn't apply. 'The romantic customs of the Trobriand Islanders do not extend to "outsiders",' explains Lafforgue. 'The locals are very proud people and they value their genetic lines.'

Discovered by the West in 1793, the islands were named after Denis de Trobriand, a lieutenant on the French ship, Espérance, but remained untouched until a Methodist missionary moved in in 1894.


He was followed in the 1930s by a Catholic Mission but the islanders, although ruled by first the British and then the Australians, clung firm to their traditional ways.
Modernity: As more and more children go to school, some of the old ways are being lost
Education: Despite the influence of Christian teachers, the majority of Trobriand Islanders continue to take a relaxed approach to sex and relationships
Tradition: Other parts of Trobriand society, such as annual shell selling expeditions, continue
Education: Despite the influence of Christian teachers, the majority of Trobriand Islanders continue to take a relaxed approach to sex and relationships



Chief's family: The house of the chieftain is recognisable by its height, shell decorations and the presence of a malagan - a carved, painted totem pole
Chief's family: The house of the chieftain is recognisable by its height, shell decorations and the presence of a malagan - a carved, painted totem pole

Relaxed: While the islanders have tried hard to cling to their traditions, some have embraced parts of modern life such as instruments
Changing times: Although some modern items such as musical instruments have been embraced, islanders cling to many traditions, including keeping pigs as pets
Pet: Pigs are eaten but they are considered to be pets and are treated like dogs
Changing times: Although some modern items such as musical instruments have been embraced, islanders cling to many traditions, including keeping pigs as pets


Is that a googly? Cricket is hugely popular and was introduced by colonial authorities. Banned from going to war, the Trobriand Islanders settle their differences with a game
Is that a googly? Cricket is hugely popular and was introduced by colonial authorities. Banned from going to war, the islanders settle their differences with a game
Home sweet home: In Obweria village, the many thatched huts are built on stilts around a central square, which is known to locals as the Buka
Home sweet home: In Obweria village, the many thatched huts are built on stilts around a central square, which is known to locals as the Buka
Now part of Papua New Guinea, the Trobrianders continue to live much as they always have, using yams as currency and operating a matriarchal system that sees children become part of their mother's clan rather than the other way around.

They also settle scores and disputes by playing cricket, which was introduced by colonial authorities after they banned tribes from going to war with each other.

'A cricket game is always the occasion for mocking remarks and challenges between villages. It is played with much whistle blowing, singing and dancing,' explains Lafforgue.

'Girls also take part in these "battles" and dance topless, only wearing grass skirts and flowers. They

also adopt very suggestive poses, which would probably come as a shock to the authorities who introduced it.

'Dances always take place after lengthy reconciliation ceremonies, with those taking part putting a mixture of coconut oil, mint and lemongrass on their bodies.'

He adds: 'I was invited to join the circle of dancers who then took a sadistic pleasure in making fun of my hairy legs. I had no hope with the girls here because they don’t like white skin and hair — it's something they see as a sign of ugliness and scruffiness. The dim dim (the white man) is not their beauty ideal.'
Big dreams: Seven-year-old Salome hopes to one day become a teacher
Magic: Although many, among them seven-year-old Salome, go to school, the Trobriand Islanders continue to believe in magic and believe it is responsible for conception
Magic: According to the Trobriand Islanders, conception isn't linked to sex but instead to magic
Magic: Although many, among them seven-year-old Salome, go to school, the Trobriand Islanders continue to believe in magic and believe it is responsible for conception

Important: Because yams are the main sign of wealth, yam houses - huts where the tubers are stored - are very important. Those belonging to chiefs are highly decorated
Important: Because yams are a sign of wealth, yam houses - huts where the tubers are stored - are very important. Those belonging to chiefs are highly decorated


Pretty: Teenagers wear earrings made from tortoiseshell - keeping them in until they have a daughter of their own
Delicate: Teenage girls wear tortoiseshell earrings which they eventually pass on to their daughters, while traditional kula boats come covered in cowrie shells
Fragile: One of the beautifully decorated kula boats, which comne covered in shells
Delicate: Teenage girls wear tortoiseshell earrings which they eventually pass on to their daughters, while traditional kula boats come covered in cowrie shells

Jewellery: Most of the Trobriand Islanders sport elaborate bracelets and necklaces, all of which are made from natural materials such as shells, stones and feathers
Jewellery: Most of the Trobriand Islanders sport elaborate bracelets and necklaces, all of which are made from natural materials such as shells, stones and feathers

Rare: Because the islands are coral atolls, anything made from stone is considered rare and valuable. This stone was polished and given as a wedding gift
Rare: Because the islands are coral atolls, anything made from stone is considered rare and valuable. This stone was polished and given as a wedding gift


Excitement: The weekly flight from Port Moresby, capital of Papua New Guinea, is the most exciting moment of the week for many and draws huge crowds
Excitement: The weekly flight from Port Moresby, capital of Papua New Guinea, is the most exciting moment of the week for many and draws huge crowds
War: During World War II, thousands of American soldiers were stationed on the Trobriand Islands. Vintage dog tags and other memorabilia can be picked up for as little as 20p
War: During World War II, thousands of American soldiers were stationed on the Trobriand Islands. Vintage dog tags can be picked up for as little as 20p
Remote: The idyllic islands are home to the Trobriand Islanders, who still live in much the same way as they always have - including fishing from wooden canoes
Remote: The idyllic islands are home to the Trobriand Islanders, who still live in much the same way as they always have - including fishing from wooden canoes
Paradise: The remote Trobriand Islands are a tiny knot of coral atolls sitting within the Solomon Sea and are part of Papua New Guinea
Paradise: The remote Trobriand Islands are a tiny knot of coral atolls surrounded by the Solomon Sea and just off the east coast of Papua New Guinea
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