It's the original free love community where women rule the roost: Welcome to the gorgeous Trobriand Islands in the South Pacific where t...
It's the original free love community where women rule the roost: Welcome to the gorgeous Trobriand Islands in the South Pacific where the ladies can have as many lovers as they please and marriages are sealed with a gift of yams and polished stone.
And as you'd expect from a place where free love rules the roost, conflicts on the islands, which are officially part of Papua New Guinea, are settled over marathon games of cricket in which even girls can take part.
But, as photographer Eric Lafforgue reveals, their easygoing attitude to sex has come at a price. 'Trobiand Islanders have a relaxed approach to sex before and even after marriage,' he explains. 'Girls learn about contraception very early and virginity has no value at all.
'If a girl gets pregnant, her family keeps the baby, because, according to the local custom, men just help to open up the woman to pregnancy - the real father is a Baloma or spirit.'
Although more and more islanders are attending school, attitudes to sex remain the same. 'Western education changed some islander's point of view, but not all of them,' explains Lafforgue.
'Relationships between married couples don't have much in common with what happens in Europe: here [in the Trobriand Islands] a man is supposed to give presents to his wife in return for the sexual favours.'
Unfortunately, the Trobiand Islanders relaxed approach to sex and relationships has left them vulnerable to HIV and AIDS - a disease which is known to locals as 'the sickness without medicine' and has ravaged some communities.
But, says Lafforgue, even the malign presence of the disease isn't enough to persuade the islanders to give up their traditional way of life.
'Despite the fact that HIV and AIDS spreads quickly through the island population, premarital sex remains a part of the islanders’ idyllic lifestyle,' continues Lafforgue.
All villages are home to a special hut called a bukumatula which is set aside especially for unmarried teenagers and their lovers, although condoms and other types of contraceptive are nowhere to be found.
There is, however, one sort of person to whom the Trobriand Islanders' amorous behaviour doesn't apply. 'The romantic customs of the Trobriand Islanders do not extend to "outsiders",' explains Lafforgue. 'The locals are very proud people and they value their genetic lines.'
Discovered by the West in 1793, the islands were named after Denis de Trobriand, a lieutenant on the French ship, Espérance, but remained untouched until a Methodist missionary moved in in 1894.
He was followed in the 1930s by a Catholic Mission but the islanders, although ruled by first the British and then the Australians, clung firm to their traditional ways.
Now part of Papua New Guinea, the Trobrianders continue to live much as they always have, using yams as currency and operating a matriarchal system that sees children become part of their mother's clan rather than the other way around.
They also settle scores and disputes by playing cricket, which was introduced by colonial authorities after they banned tribes from going to war with each other.
'A cricket game is always the occasion for mocking remarks and challenges between villages. It is played with much whistle blowing, singing and dancing,' explains Lafforgue.
'Girls also take part in these "battles" and dance topless, only wearing grass skirts and flowers. They
also adopt very suggestive poses, which would probably come as a shock to the authorities who introduced it.
'Dances always take place after lengthy reconciliation ceremonies, with those taking part putting a mixture of coconut oil, mint and lemongrass on their bodies.'
He adds: 'I was invited to join the circle of dancers who then took a sadistic pleasure in making fun of my hairy legs. I had no hope with the girls here because they don’t like white skin and hair — it's something they see as a sign of ugliness and scruffiness. The dim dim (the white man) is not their beauty ideal.'
Permissive: Trobriand teenagers are encouraged to experiment with different lovers and a special hut, right, is set aside in every village for them to use |
And as you'd expect from a place where free love rules the roost, conflicts on the islands, which are officially part of Papua New Guinea, are settled over marathon games of cricket in which even girls can take part.
But, as photographer Eric Lafforgue reveals, their easygoing attitude to sex has come at a price. 'Trobiand Islanders have a relaxed approach to sex before and even after marriage,' he explains. 'Girls learn about contraception very early and virginity has no value at all.
Carrying cash: Along with yams, dried banana leaves are currency on the island. According to Lafforgue, this little girl's leaves are the equivalent of a bundle of £10 notes |
Chief: Mr Tolobuwa is the head of Vaikiki village and always carries betel nuts, lime gourds and spatulas. The spatula is made from bird bone but human used to be used |
Customs: Little girls always wear garlands of fresh flowers on their heads while right, a widow, distinguishable by her shaved head, smiles for Lafforgue's camera |
Inside the world's original free love community: Islanders change spouses whenever they want, have dedicated 'love huts' and settle their differences over a game of cricket |
Although more and more islanders are attending school, attitudes to sex remain the same. 'Western education changed some islander's point of view, but not all of them,' explains Lafforgue.
'Relationships between married couples don't have much in common with what happens in Europe: here [in the Trobriand Islands] a man is supposed to give presents to his wife in return for the sexual favours.'
Unfortunately, the Trobiand Islanders relaxed approach to sex and relationships has left them vulnerable to HIV and AIDS - a disease which is known to locals as 'the sickness without medicine' and has ravaged some communities.
But, says Lafforgue, even the malign presence of the disease isn't enough to persuade the islanders to give up their traditional way of life.
Traditional: Trobriand Islanders wear red grass skirts unique to the islands for ceremonies and weddings. Completing the look are traditional feathered headbands |
In charge: Girls are encouraged to take part in 'battles' and dance topless, with most choosing to wear red grass skirts, shells, feathers and fresh flowers |
Elaborate: The skirts worn by the women are made from dried grass, while necklaces and bracelets are made from shells. Men wear cockatoo feather headdresses |
Permissive: Trobriand teenagers are encouraged to experiment with different lovers and a special hut, right, is set aside in every village for them to use |
Permissive: Trobriand teenagers are encouraged to experiment with different lovers and a special hut, right, is set aside in every village for them to use |
All villages are home to a special hut called a bukumatula which is set aside especially for unmarried teenagers and their lovers, although condoms and other types of contraceptive are nowhere to be found.
There is, however, one sort of person to whom the Trobriand Islanders' amorous behaviour doesn't apply. 'The romantic customs of the Trobriand Islanders do not extend to "outsiders",' explains Lafforgue. 'The locals are very proud people and they value their genetic lines.'
Discovered by the West in 1793, the islands were named after Denis de Trobriand, a lieutenant on the French ship, Espérance, but remained untouched until a Methodist missionary moved in in 1894.
He was followed in the 1930s by a Catholic Mission but the islanders, although ruled by first the British and then the Australians, clung firm to their traditional ways.
Education: Despite the influence of Christian teachers, the majority of Trobriand Islanders continue to take a relaxed approach to sex and relationships |
Education: Despite the influence of Christian teachers, the majority of Trobriand Islanders continue to take a relaxed approach to sex and relationships |
Chief's family: The house of the chieftain is recognisable by its height, shell decorations and the presence of a malagan - a carved, painted totem pole |
Changing times: Although some modern items such as musical instruments have been embraced, islanders cling to many traditions, including keeping pigs as pets |
Changing times: Although some modern items such as musical instruments have been embraced, islanders cling to many traditions, including keeping pigs as pets |
Is that a googly? Cricket is hugely popular and was introduced by colonial authorities. Banned from going to war, the islanders settle their differences with a game |
Home sweet home: In Obweria village, the many thatched huts are built on stilts around a central square, which is known to locals as the Buka |
They also settle scores and disputes by playing cricket, which was introduced by colonial authorities after they banned tribes from going to war with each other.
'A cricket game is always the occasion for mocking remarks and challenges between villages. It is played with much whistle blowing, singing and dancing,' explains Lafforgue.
'Girls also take part in these "battles" and dance topless, only wearing grass skirts and flowers. They
also adopt very suggestive poses, which would probably come as a shock to the authorities who introduced it.
'Dances always take place after lengthy reconciliation ceremonies, with those taking part putting a mixture of coconut oil, mint and lemongrass on their bodies.'
He adds: 'I was invited to join the circle of dancers who then took a sadistic pleasure in making fun of my hairy legs. I had no hope with the girls here because they don’t like white skin and hair — it's something they see as a sign of ugliness and scruffiness. The dim dim (the white man) is not their beauty ideal.'
Magic: Although many, among them seven-year-old Salome, go to school, the Trobriand Islanders continue to believe in magic and believe it is responsible for conception |
Magic: Although many, among them seven-year-old Salome, go to school, the Trobriand Islanders continue to believe in magic and believe it is responsible for conception |
Important: Because yams are a sign of wealth, yam houses - huts where the tubers are stored - are very important. Those belonging to chiefs are highly decorated |
Delicate: Teenage girls wear tortoiseshell earrings which they eventually pass on to their daughters, while traditional kula boats come covered in cowrie shells |
Delicate: Teenage girls wear tortoiseshell earrings which they eventually pass on to their daughters, while traditional kula boats come covered in cowrie shells |
Jewellery: Most of the Trobriand Islanders sport elaborate bracelets and necklaces, all of which are made from natural materials such as shells, stones and feathers |
Rare: Because the islands are coral atolls, anything made from stone is considered rare and valuable. This stone was polished and given as a wedding gift |
Excitement: The weekly flight from Port Moresby, capital of Papua New Guinea, is the most exciting moment of the week for many and draws huge crowds |
War: During World War II, thousands of American soldiers were stationed on the Trobriand Islands. Vintage dog tags can be picked up for as little as 20p |
Remote: The idyllic islands are home to the Trobriand Islanders, who still live in much the same way as they always have - including fishing from wooden canoes |
Paradise: The remote Trobriand Islands are a tiny knot of coral atolls surrounded by the Solomon Sea and just off the east coast of Papua New Guinea |
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